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Achieve a Professional Look: How to Install Landscape Edging

September 24, 2025 by Hilton Landscape Supply

Crisp borders turn a good landscape into a great one. When you install landscape edging correctly, you create clean lines that make lawns, flower beds, gravel paths, and mulch areas look intentional and easy to maintain. This step-by-step guide from Hilton Landscape Supply explains how to choose the right edging, plan your layout, and complete a durable installation you’ll be proud of.

Why Install Landscape Edging?

Edging is more than decoration. It separates materials so mulch stays put, gravel doesn’t wander, and turf doesn’t creep into planting beds. It also creates a smoother mowing edge, protects irrigation lines and plant roots from string trimmers, and can help guide surface water so it doesn’t wash soil onto walkways. Done well, edging saves time on maintenance and keeps your landscape looking sharp season after season.

1. Pick the Right Material

Hilton Landscape Supply offers several edging choices. Pick based on the look you want, how you’ll use the space, and your budget.

  1. Steel or aluminum edging: Thin, strong, and discreet. Great for formal lines and tight curves. Steel is very durable; aluminum won’t rust.
  2. Composite/plastic bender board: Flexible and cost-effective. Ideal for flowing curves around beds and paths.
  3. Paver or stone edging: A visible border that doubles as a design feature. Works well as a mowing strip and for pathways.
  4. Natural rock: Organic look for informal gardens. Excellent for terracing small grade changes and containing mulch.
  5. Wood: A classic look for raised beds and rustic borders. Best with rot-resistant species or treated lumber.

Are you unsure which option best suits your project? Bring photos and measurements to Hilton Landscape Supply, and we’ll help you compare options in person.

Wondering how much you need? Measure your planned border and add 10–15% extra for cuts, curves, and connectors. Remember spikes, base material, and joint sand if using pavers. Metal edging often costs more up front but saves time in maintenance with a sleek, long-lasting result. Composite offers value and flexibility. Stone and paver options deliver a strong visual border and can double as a mowing strip. Hilton Landscape Supply can help you estimate quantities and compare price points for your design.

2. Collect the Tools and Materials for the Job

Starting with the right tools is the difference between a crisp, professional edge and an afternoon of rework. Each item solves a specific problem: a string line keeps runs straight, a measuring tape keeps heights consistent, and a flat spade or trenching shovel carves vertical walls so the border won’t wiggle later. A hand tamper locks the base to prevent frost heave, a rubber mallet seats sections without bending them, and snips or a hacksaw make clean, tight connections that don’t leak mulch or gravel. Safety glasses and gloves keep you focused and injury-free. When everything is within reach, you can install landscape edging in one smooth sequence—lay out, set, anchor, and backfill—without detours or do-overs. Here’s a checklist of everything you’ll need:

  1. Your chosen edging (plus connectors or end stakes as required)
  2. Spikes or anchoring stakes
  3. Crushed rock or coarse sand for the base, as needed
  4. Landscape fabric (optional under gravel or mulch)
  5. String line, stakes, measuring tape, and marking paint
  6. Flat spade or trenching shovel and a hand tamper
  7. Rubber mallet; metal snips or a hacksaw for cutting
  8. Safety glasses and gloves

3. Plan the Line Before You Dig

Good planning is the cheapest insurance against wavy lines, crooked transitions, and costly do-overs. A few minutes spent mapping sightlines, confirming utilities, and deciding the finished height ensures you install landscape edging once—accurately—so materials fit, curves flow, and nothing needs to be dug up and redone.

  1. Map the edges. Lay out a hose or rope to visualize curves, then switch to a string line for straight runs. Stand back and check the view from the street, patio, and main windows.
  2. Mark utilities. If you’re unsure about underground lines, call before you dig. In Oregon, it’s as simple as dialing 811!
  3. Set your finished height. Decide whether the top will sit flush with adjacent surfaces (safer to walk and mow) or slightly higher to block mulch.

4. Install the Edging

  1. Score and dig the trench. Use marking paint along your layout. For metal or composite edging, dig a trench roughly as deep as the edging plus 1–2 inches for base. Keep trench walls vertical and the bottom as level as possible.
  2. Prepare the base. Add 1–2 inches of compactible material (crushed rock or coarse sand) where recommended by your edging type. Lightly moisten and tamp until firm. A stable base prevents frost heave and wavy lines.
  3. Set the edging. Place the first section with connectors ready. Follow your line, pressing the edging into the trench so the top aligns with your target height. For curves, work slowly and adjust in small increments to avoid kinks.
  4. Anchor securely. Drive spikes through the built-in slots or directly behind the edging at 24–36 inch intervals on straight runs and closer on curves. Keep the edging plumb and the top elevation consistent as you go.
  5. Join sections cleanly. Use manufacturer connectors or overlap methods. Trim ends square for tight seams. On long metal runs, tiny gaps at connectors can accommodate thermal movement.
  6. Backfill and compact. Backfill on both sides with native soil or base material. Tamp in lifts to lock the edging in place. Check for level and straightness as you progress.
  7. Finish surfaces. Install landscape fabric if using under gravel or decorative rock. Add mulch, soil, or gravel to the finished grade. Rake smooth and re-tamp where necessary.
  8. Final check. Run a mower wheel or a board along the edge to confirm a smooth, consistent line. Adjust spikes or height while the soil is still workable.

Material-Specific Tips

Every edging material behaves a little differently, so small technique tweaks make a big difference in how clean your lines look and how long they last. Use these tips to match your approach to the product you’ve chosen—so you get fewer surprises, tighter seams, and a durable finish the first time.

  1. Metal edging: Pre-bend tighter curves by gently forming the section on the ground. Cut with snips or a hacksaw, file sharp edges, and seal cut steel with a rust-inhibiting touch-up if desired. Stake more frequently on curves.
  2. Composite/plastic bender board: If it’s cool, briefly set the board in the sun to increase flexibility. Double-stake inside curves. Keep the top slightly above grade where you want to block mulch migration.
  3. Pavers/stone: Excavate for a 4–6 inch compacted base under the stones if they’ll be walked or mowed on. Add a thin sand setting bed, tap stones level with a mallet, and sweep joint sand to lock in place.
  4. Wood: Use rot-resistant species or treated lumber. Provide drainage behind boards so water doesn’t sit against the wood. Anchor with rebar or stakes at regular intervals.
  5. Natural rock: Seat each stone into a shallow trench so the finished tops align. Vary sizes for a natural look and interlock adjacent stones to resist shifting.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Before you tackle the details, remember that small mistakes during installation often become big eyesores later. A brief plan and a few technique checks will keep your edges straight, stable, and long-lasting.

Set the edging at the right depth: if the base is too shallow or the edging rides high, freeze–thaw cycles and foot traffic will make lines wander. Keep heights consistent by checking with a level or straight board every few feet to avoid a wavy top. Anchor generously—add spikes at joints, transitions, and especially on curves—so nothing creeps out of line. Plan for drainage so you don’t create a dam; leave discreet weep points or grade a slight fall to send water where you want it. Finally, respect the radius: forcing tight bends leads to kinks or gaps, so soften the curve or choose a more flexible material.

Ready to Install Landscape Edging? We’re Here to Help

When you install landscape edging with the right material, a compacted base, and proper anchoring, you’ll get straight, durable lines that elevate your entire yard. Visit Hilton Landscape Supply to see edging options side-by-side, choose matching mulch or decorative rock, and get everything delivered to your project site. Bring a simple sketch with measurements, and our team will help you plan the materials list so your installation goes smoothly from the first shovel to the final rake.

Filed Under: Gardening & Landscaping Tips, Hardscaping

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